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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known high-end names. However, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.